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Dec 28, 2009, 9:12pm

Deviant Anomaly's Belles Lettres :: DA's Art Projects :: Miscellanious Projects :: Sherlock Holmes Costume Project

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Topic: Sherlock Holmes Costume Project (Read 88 times)

Deviant Anomaly
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Sherlock Holmes Costume Project
« Thread Started on May 28, 2009, 6:03pm »

This thread is intended to chronicle the trials and triumphs during my second attempt at costume making. As a lifelong aficionado of the cinema, I am often creatively inspired by the visuals I see on the big screen. As an unrepentant fangirl of certain characters and the actors who portray them, I enjoy emersing myself in the fictional worlds they bring to life. Therefore what better means to experience the fun and excitement for one's self than inhabiting a particular persona even for a brief time.

Currently my favorite actor is Mister Robert Downey Jr. I have been following his career with avid interest since Iron Man debuted in May 2008. Later that year, it was announced that Mister Downey's next film would be a graphic novel adaptation of Sherlock Holmes. Admittedly I am not a fan of classic literature and therefore had no knowledge regarding Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's master detective. However I quickly remedied this by picking up a two volume set of the stories. While I was reading along, news from the movie's production kept coming in a steady stream and increasing my general excitement.

It was also about this time that my family began discussing vacation plans. We are unabashed fanatics of Disney and have visited the park in Florida on several occasions. One of the special events that we've all expressed interest in attending is the Not So Scary Halloween Party every October. Of course half the fun is dressing up in costume as the seasonal custom goes. My younger sister settled pretty easily upon hers: Giselle's teal curtain dress from Enchanted. I on the other hand was stumped for ideas. I wanted something comfortable for running about the park a few hours, easy to assemble with a minimum of sewing required and suited to my sensibilities. Then one day it occured to me. I could go as Mister Downey's version of Sherlock Holmes. And that is what prompted the costume project.

With that said, I hope those who are reading along enjoy the adventure as much as I have.

Cheers,
DA

« Last Edit: Aug 9, 2009, 10:10am by Deviant Anomaly »

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Re: Sherlock Holmes Costume Project
« Reply #1 on May 28, 2009, 6:21pm »

It All Started With A Hat

Every project has a jumping off point. That moment when you commit to the undertaking and suddenly what was once mere idea becomes tangible reality. Mine came while browsing USA Today.com's slide show gallery about the film

http://www.usatoday.com/life/movies/l090....id=990&aid=4627

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The Game Is Afoot

Holmes and Watson check out a laboratory for clues to a murder. Instead of the standard deerstalker cap and Inverness cape worn by many a previous Sherlock, Ritchie chose a wardrobe for Downey that played against the stereotype. "I wanted something more aesthetically pleasing and plausible and rewarding to look at," the director says. "I quite like deerstalkers, but there is only one person in history who ever wore one." He allowed the actor to pick his own fedora from a famous London hat shop, Lock & Co. "It is sort of authentic to the era, and Robert was very passionate about it." As for the bag that looks like a Victorian fanny pack, that is where Holmes keeps his clue-finding gear.

As Holmes would say, "Halloa! What's this?" Mister Downey's hat came from an actual shop? Sure enough. A quick search on Google brought up Lock & Co's website. The hatter has been in business since the late 1600s and holds a very prestigious reputation as one of the best companies in the business having served royalty, celebrities and other notable names throughout history. However they have a very large selection of hats and I did not know what specific style Mister Downey was wearing. Time to call upon the experts then. I placed a request for a copy of their catalog by mail and included an inquiry stating my intentions. I had no idea what type of response I might get, if I got one at all. My previous experience with high end shops is they can be a little snobby. I was also asking for information regarding a celebrity client whose privacy they might feel duty-bound to protect. They may not take me seriously at all. So with intrepredation I waited.

A little over 24 hours later, there was an email waiting in my inbox. The sales lady's tone was very friendly and polite as she informed me it looked like Mister Downey was wearing a high crown bowler. Oops, wrong hat. I realized she must have done a web search and the first pictures that came up were of "Holmes undercover" when he's wearing the purple frock coat costume. LOL I sent a reply thanking her kindly for the quick response and willingness to help. Yet that wasn't quite the hat I was searching for and attached a picture showing the fedora I was hoping she could identify. She responded to my response saying she thought it looked like the Chelsea style. However that one did not have the "ribbon trim" around the brim that Mister Downey's hat appeared to sport. I also thought the crown (part that sits upon the top of your head) was the wrong shape. I had my eye on the Vienna at that point. Still unusure though, I browsed through the site once more and that's when I came across the Superfelt. After scrutinizing several set pics, I determined it is the closest.

Of course, Mister Downey has excellent tastes. The Superfelt is a limited edition and one of the most expensive hats Lock & Co offers. This fangirl has never been daunted by price points though. When I set my mind to something, I find a way to make it happen. A careful check of the finances showed that it was feasible without putting myself into immediate bankruptcy. A rational person would claim I lacked any sense of reason, but then I've never claimed to be a reasonable person either. LOL I slept on the decision though just to make certain my conscious could handle the pressure. By the time I reached work the morning of May 21st, I was determined and placed my order through the site. Then I nearly had a heartattack when a snafu occured while sending my payment info. So I had the added pleasure of calling the shop in London to give them the details directly. Both the receptionist and salesmen were very pleasant. I didn't know which was more exciting at that moment: buying the hat or hearing their authentic British accents. LOL

It arrived at work on May 27th. Opening the shipping box, folding back the pristine white tissue paper, sliding out the exclusive black & gold hat box and finally lifting out the hat itself was like receiving the best gift you could ever dream of on Christmas morning. Lock & Co have certainly earned their reputation too because it is a stunning piece. The fur felt is a rich, true black that is ultra soft to the touch. The ribbed ribbon circling the crown is discreetly pinned with a precisely tied bow. The unique satin lining inside is a blazing scarlet embossed with a gold company logo. Most impressive is that it fits to a tee as if I had visited the shop in person to be custom sized. Regardless of what happens with the costume, I am thoroughly smitten with this hat and don't regret for one second seizing the chance to own it. Not only do I have a luxury item that will last for years, but a story with great sentimental value to go with it.

Arrival at work 5-27-09

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A limited edition detail: the scarlet satin lining with gold embossed Lock & Co logo

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At Home Later That Night...

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Mister Downey's hat

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« Last Edit: Aug 8, 2009, 12:14pm by Deviant Anomaly »

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Re: Sherlock Holmes Costume Project
« Reply #2 on May 28, 2009, 6:35pm »

Wrestling With My Penchant For Accuracy

Before I set to work on this project, the first thing I told myself was not to sweat the small details. I can get a little overzealous about that at times. Seems how I do not have a costume department at my disposal, there was going to be some instances where I would have to settle for close enough. That became readily apparently when I began shopping for fabrics. Who knew black corduroy had so many variations available? And you'd think black & tan stripes would be a common pattern. You'd be wrong though.

None has proven more challenging than the waistcoat. The original has a small, dark green floral pattern over a black background. I have little doubt it was custom made for the film because there is nothing that even comes horseshoes & hand-grenades close to that fabric. So this would be the first test of my "close enough" coping mechanism. I decided staying within the green portion of the color wheel mattered more to me. Being underneath the black over coat would create the illusion of a dark hue to the fabric. That in mind, upon my first visit to one local fabric store I kept my eye out for anything suitable.

Now I have no sewing skill whatsoever. My only experience is very poorly mending seams on old t-shirts so I can press them back into service. Thus I have employed my mother's considerable expertise to compensate for my shortcomings. First order of business was finding a pattern that she could work from. This insures that the size is correct and tells how much fabric we need for each piece. Thankfully Victorian style has never truly gone out of style. We chose Simplicity pattern #4083 that with a few minor edits should work well.

As we were waiting on a salesclerk to find out some information, I spotted a dark green jacquard near the formal section. It had the color going for it. Yet I kept looking just in case I could find something even better. Then Mom picked it up and we agreed that it had a Victorian age sensibility about it. More importantly it appealed to my sensibility too. Having scored high on the "close enough" meter, I purchased it along with the pattern. The project was now well under way.

The waistcoat fabric

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When I shopped for the black corduroy required for the overcoat, the heavy fabric was technically out of season being May. However the store had a few remnant bolts in their stockroom. One looked promising at first glance, but later proved not so much when paired with the green waistcoat fabric. Ultimately I resorted to the internet where I found a wide wale hi lo version that fit the bill. I picked up some silk lining and thus all the fabric was accounted for.

The overcoat fabric with waistcoat fabric

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Lining, brocade and corduroy fabrics together

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« Last Edit: Oct 25, 2009, 3:25pm by Deviant Anomaly »

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Re: Sherlock Holmes Costume Project
« Reply #3 on Oct 25, 2009, 4:55pm »

Accessories Make The Detective

I know of few characters who are more recognized by their accessories than Sherlock Holmes. Who doesn't think of a deerstalker cap, Iverness cape, Calabash pipe and magnifying glass when they hear the name? However most of these items never appear in the stories. They don't appear in director Guy Ritchie's re-imagining either. Fortunately Victorian era antiques is a large market where you can find a surplus of quality pieces. Thus I delved into the realms of Ebay with a shopping list of essentials.

First up were the glasses. During the Victorian era, eyeglasses with tinted lenses were utilized by those with a medical condition effecting the eyes. Why the costume department put Holmes in this style, your guess is as good as mine (I'm going with the character's bohemian nature). They're not impossible to find, but being more rare it took some considerable effort hunting them down. My persistence paid off handsomely though with this pair listed as a set for a mere $28. They are in great condition for their age and former use as noted by the scratches on the lens.

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Next I picked up an inexpensive pair of oxford shoes. Nothing really spectacular about them, nor are they costume accurate (Mister Downey wears boots). However personal preference won out this time. They're more comfortable, look more stylish and the heel keeps my long pants from dragging while adding a little height.

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Another area where I took liberties was the magnifying glass and calling card case. So far there has been no footage of Holmes utilizing either. Yet nothing indicates the character's detective status more than a magnifying glass. Similarly calling cards were a Victorian era custom than received mention in several of the stories. Conventional style magnifiers seemed too big and most antique pieces too feminine. Again persistence and patience was key as I found a small, simple glass from 1912 Birmingham England. Later my coworkers, Jeff Long and Alan Robinson, made a wonderful carrying case for it that mimics Holmes' belt-bound one containing his tools of the trade. The calling card case is an inexpensive replica as authentic antique pieces were too rich for my pocketbook.

[image]

Finally came the pipe. Holmes keeps this trademark instrument in the new film, although it is a much more commonplace version. There is a singular glimpse of it in the trailer which didn't give me much reference to go by. Hence I did my best and chose a modern "lady's pipe" so called for its slender, curving design.

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Re: Sherlock Holmes Costume Project
« Reply #4 on Oct 26, 2009, 10:46am »

How To Customize An Ascot

I've read accounts from many costume makers who seem to have no problem finding suitable fabrics. I on the other hand apparently don't have that kind of luck. There was a bevy of pre-made ascots available for purchase online. However none of them in the black and gold striped pattern I needed. I couldn't find any raw fabric suitable to make my own either. So I had to get creative and put my inner (abet novice) crafter to work.

I purchased a plain black silk ascot from a western fashion online store. Then I devised to glue on gold ribbon to create the stripes. Fortunately the New York Times posted a behind the scenes photo that showed Mister Downey's ascot unimpeded by the buttoned waistcoat. Using it as a guide, I began to lay down the pattern by adhering the ribbon in place with Liquid Sew glue. A few stitches of embroidery thread kept the ribbon tacked down in more flexible areas.

The process was time consuming and the glue needed 24 hours to set. So I tackled one side at a time, making it a 2 day process. Ultimately the results were better than I expected too. The only way one could tell the stripes are not original to the fabric is to flip it over where the ends of the ribbons are exposed.

Night 1

Night 2

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